Here, you'll find a list of some common pool problems.
If you click on the heading of the type of problem you are experiencing, you'll
find some useful maintenance and preventative tips. Of course, if this
doesn't solve your problem, give us a call at the store.
Algae
Black Spots
Chlorine Odor
Filter Doesn’t Seem to be
Working
Cloudy Water
Corrosion
Eye or Skin Irritation
Green but Clean Water
High Chlorine Demand
High Chlorine Reading
High Calcium or Total Dissolved
Solids (TDS)
Losing Water Level
pH Bounce
pH Tests Too High
pH Tests Too Low
Pink Slime
Foamy/Sudsy Water
Staining
Algae/Black Spots
Algae are single-cell plants. They need sunlight, carbon dioxide
and warm water to grow. Most algae
begins with a slippery slimy feel on pool or spa walls before it is visible. In
just a few hours it can multiply to the point where it completely overtakes the
water and causes cloudiness or haze. This is called "Algae Bloom".
There are 3 main types of algae that are usually found in pool and spa water.
GREEN ALGAE - This type of algae floats in the water or forms on the sides of
the pool or spa as Green Dust. The water can become so cloudy or turbid that it
is unsafe because you can't see the bottom.
YELLOW ALGAE - Also called "Mustard Algae" because of the mustard
color, appears as yellow powder deposits usually on the shady sides of the
walls.
BLACK ALGAE - This type of algae also appears as a Blue-Green color and forms
very adhesive dime to quarter size spots on pool and spa surfaces.
Algae does not form in the presence of adequate levels of free chlorine. Algae
is an indication of poor chlorine level maintenance. However, once established,
algae may become chlorine resistance in concentrations up to 5 PPM Free
Chlorine.
The best algae prevention is prudent maintenance of free
chlorine levels. Algaecides can also be used to control algae but they do not destroy the
organic waste nor do they sanitize the pool after an algae bloom. However, they
can be used to make up for sloppy chlorine maintenance.
Treatment
Once algae is established you must treat the water with shock. This kills the
algae and destroys the organic waste left behind. Then brush and sweep the pool thoroughly.
Make sure the pump, filter and Chlorinator are working properly. Run pump
continuously for 24 hours and then vacuum thoroughly. Do not use the pool until
all chemical levels are back to normal and the water is crystal clear.
Prevention
Maintain proper levels of chlorine. Follow Basic Routine Maintenance
Schedule.
Chlorine Odor
Free Chlorine at levels up to about 15 PPM has no detectable
taste or odor and it causes no irritation. Free Chorine that reacts with
ammonia, bacteria and other waste products is converted into Combined Chlorine
or Chloramines. Ammonia is a normal by product of the body from waste and
sweat. Combined Chlorine has a strong
offensive smell which is what most people smell when they complain of a strong
chlorine odor. Combined Chlorine also causes eye and skin irritation.
Combined Chlorine can be eliminated by shocking the pool appropriately. There
should be NO Combined Chlorine in your water!
Treatment
Test both the Free and Total Chlorine levels and shock as needed.
Filter Doesn’t Seem to be
Working
Possible reasons:
*Pressure may be too high
(Assuming that the pressure gauge is working correctly, a
high pressure reading is one that is 10 lbs. above your normal pressure level
while the filter is clean.)
*Filter may be dirty
*Skimmer and/or pump baskets might be full
Treatment
*If pressure is too high:
CARTRIDGE FILTER
Remove filter and clean it with filter cleaner.
It may have to be soaked overnight. Look for general condition of the
filter. Are there cracks or rips? Remember that the typical life of a cartridge
filter is one season.
SAND FILTER
Backwash the filter according to the manufacturer’s directions. Note:
You don’t want to backwash a sand filter too often because they clean
more thoroughly when they are a bit “dirty”.
Unfortunately in this case, you trade off the turnover rate for
filtration ability. To help you
determine the correct frequency for backwashing a sand filter, give us a call.
Ensure that air is not entering the pump. This can cause channeling and it makes it
easier for dirt/debris to pass through the filter.
Sand should be changed every 3-5 years because continued use
causes sand to become rounded. Rounding
reduces the efficiency of sand to trap dirt and debris.
DE FILTER
Bump the filter (only if you have a Perflex DE Filter). If that doesn’t work, backwash. If
backwashing does not work, you may have to take the filter apart and hose off
the grids.
At least once per year, chemically soak the
fingers/grids. (If you are a Baquacil
user, we recommend that you chemically soak the fingers/grids twice per
year.) Check for tears, rips and
cracks. Any of these will allow DE back
into the pool.
After cleaning, add the appropriate amount of DE.
NOTE: NEVER run a DE
filter without the proper amount of DE.
You can ruin your grids/fingers.
*If filter is dirty, clean it:
CARTRIDGE
Remove the filter and soak it. Replace if necessary.
SAND
Backwash the filter.
DE
Bump the filter (if you have a Perflex DE Filter) and then
backwash.
*If the skimmer and/or baskets are full, empty them of
debris.
Cloudy Water
This can be caused from a number of problems. Here are some
possibilities:
*Clogged Filter or Poor Circulation
*Algae
*Excessive Organic Waste
*Low Sanitizer
*Improper Water Balance
Treatment
1.) Inspect pump and filter to verify it's working properly.
2.) Test all water factors and balance water.
3.) Double-shock pool.
4.) Maintain proper levels of chlorine. Verify that the
chlorinator is working properly.
5.) If algae is a problem, see Algae Problems
6.) Follow Basic Routine Maintenance Schedule
Corrosion
Corrosive water causes etching of plaster pitting of
concrete and dissolving of grouting. Plastic liners wrinkle and crack. Pump and
filter equipment corrode, rust and eventually freeze up or leak or both.
This is caused by improper water balance.
Treatment
Test all water factors and balance water before it is too late.
Eye or Skin Irritation
This can be caused from a number of problems. Here are some
possibilities:
*PH Too Low or Too High
*Improper Water Balance
*Combined Chlorine
*Excessive Organic Waste
*High Total Dissolved Solids
*Algaecides
*Algae
*High Chlorine (above 10 PPM)
Treatment
Test all water factors. Balance water. If necessary, shock pool
to remove any traces of organic waste.
Green but Clean Water
If your Total Alkalinity is out of balance, you may see
clear green water. Metals in your water
can also cause this. A possible cause of
iron in the water may be that your chlorine or shock is oxidizing in the
water. Rain water can add metal content
to your water.
Treatment
Try bringing your pH and TA back into balance. If that does not clear up the green water, bring
in a water sample for us to test. Depending
on the cause, we may have you add a chelating agent like Metal Out by Natural
Chemistry to the water. Remember, it’s
important to adjust your pH AFTER the chelating agent is added.
High Chlorine Demand
This can be caused by a number of things. Some factors may
be:
*High bather load
*High water temperature
*Stabilizer is low
*Improper water balance
*High pH
*Phosphates
*Nitrates
Treatment
1.) Test water for all factors (including stabilizer/conditioner) and adjust to
balance the water
2.) If the pool is exposed to sunlight, use a stabilized
chlorine or add stabilizer/conditioner (cyanuric acid). Initially add
enough to bring the concentration up to 25 PPM.
3.) Verify that the chlorinator is working properly.
The proper level of chlorine is 1 to 3 PPM for pools.
High Chlorine Reading
This can be caused by a number of things. Some factors may
be:
*Pool recently Shocked (this will dissipate by itself)
*Automatic Chlorinator needs adjustment
*Reduced bather load (lower usage requires less sanitizer)
*Reduced water temperature (lower temperatures, typically in
the spring or fall, require less chlorine)
Treatment
Adjust the automatic chlorinator, floater or adjust the number of chlorine tabs
you use. The chlorine level will reduce by itself. Don't use the pool
until the chlorine level is back to normal.
High Calcium or Total Dissolved
Solids (TDS)
The maximum recommended level of Calcium Hardness is 400
PPM. The maximum recommended TDS is 2,000 PPM.
EVERYTHING that you add to the pool INCLUDING TAP WATER has residual chemicals
that eventually build up in the pool.
High calcium can be caused by using Cal-Hypo shock. If you are approaching the higher limits of
Calcium Hardness, you may want to switch to a lithium based shock.
Treatment
Drain water and refill with fresh water of lower Calcium Hardness. You can
reduce the TDS to half by draining 1/2 of the water and refilling with fresh
water.
It won't do any good to drain and refill the pool with tap water that is 400
PPM or higher. You may need to find another water source such as by delivery
truck. Depending on the cost, if this water is low enough in calcium it will
probably last years.
Losing Water Level
Keep the water level up to mid-skimmer. Add water when it has dropped an inch or two
(normal due to evaporation on hot days).
If you are constantly losing water, give us a call to schedule a service
visit.
pH Bounce
pH is a measure of the amount of acid or base in solution.
Adding acid lowers the pH. Adding base raises the pH. Adding too much acid one
day may require adding base or pH Down the next day. This up and down cycle is
referred to as "pH Bounce"
Total Alkalinity buffers or absorbs both acid and base in pool water preventing
"pH Bounce". Therefore, increasing the amount of Total Alkalinity can
improve this situation. The exact amount of Total Alkalinity depends on
the Saturation Index, type of sanitizer, temperature, whether it's a spa or
pool, stabilizer and other factors but is normally somewhere between 60 and 180
PPM.
Treatment
Test all water factors and balance water. Ensure that Total Alkalinity is balanced
before adjusting the pH.
pH Tests Too High
This is usually because the Total Alkalinity is too
high.
Treatment
Test all water factors and balance water.
pH Tests Too Low
This is usually because Total Alkalinity is too low.
Treatment
Test all water factors and balance water. Be sure that Total Alkalinity is balanced and
then adjust pH as necessary.
Pink Slime
Pink Slime is a form of water mold usually brought into the
pool by another swimmer who picked it up around a lake or ocean.
Treatment
Double shock the water. Be sure to add
brushes, solar cover, toys and anything else that has been contaminated with
pink slime to the water before shocking.
This will prevent the reintroduction of the pink slime bacteria.
Foamy/Sudsy Water
This can be caused by a number of things. Here are some
factors which contribute to this:
*Algaecides (too much)
*High Total Dissolved Solids
*Soap residue in swimmers clothing
*Improper water balance
*Air in return line
Treatment
1.) Test all water factors and balance water as necessary.
2.) If using algaecides, switch to a non-foaming type.
3.) Time and filtration will usually clear foamy/sudsy
water.
Staining
Water which causes stains on the pool or metal surfaces is
caused by either improper water balance or heavy metals in solution.
Metals can come from the source water. Metals such as manganese and iron are
common is some water supplies. DO NOT USE UNCHELATED COPPER ALGAECIDES as they
are also a source of metal staining.
Treatment
Before you can treat a stain, you must determine the type of
stain—either organic or metallic—you have.
To determine the type of stain, follow these steps:
1.) Rub a puck of
chlorine on the stain. If the chlorine
lightens the stain, it is organic.
Shocking the pool should fix it.
2. )If rubbing chlorine on the stain does not lighten the
stain, you can test the stain using pH Decreaser. Put a handful of pH Decreaser in a sock and
rub the sock on the stain. If the stain
lightens, you have a metallic stain. You
can use a product like Stain and Scale Remover to correct this problem.
**NOTE**
Do not shock the pool if you have a metallic stain. Shock will cause metals to come out of
solution.